The debate over wild-caught versus farmed salmon continues, but a new study reveals a troubling trend: mislabeling. Researchers at Seattle Pacific University have found that salmon is frequently misrepresented, particularly in sushi restaurants, often being sold as wild-caught when it’s actually farmed. This practice can lead to inflated prices for consumers and hinder conservation efforts.
The issue of seafood mislabeling, particularly with salmon, isn’t new. Washington state, recognizing the importance of its salmon industry, passed a law in 2013 aimed at curbing this type of fraud. However, the recent study indicates that the problem persists. Tracie Delgado, a biology professor at Seattle Pacific University and the senior researcher on the study, expressed surprise at the findings, highlighting that mislabeling remains prevalent despite existing legislation.
Delgado and her students conducted a comprehensive analysis of salmon DNA samples collected from 67 grocery stores and 52 sushi restaurants in the Seattle area between fall 2022 and fall 2023. Their analysis revealed that 18% of the samples were mislabeled. The research team’s findings were published in PLOS-One.
While mislabeling was observed in both grocery stores and restaurants, the latter presented a more significant problem. Approximately one-third of the restaurant samples were incorrectly labeled as wild salmon, while no such mislabeling was found in grocery stores. In some cases, sushi marketed as a specific wild salmon species was actually a different wild species—a practice also observed in grocery stores, albeit less frequently. The combined rate of wild-to-farmed and wild-to-wild mislabeling was 38% in restaurants and 11% in stores.
Encouragingly, the study found no instances of farmed salmon being sold as wild in grocery stores, suggesting that Washington’s seafood identification laws have had some positive impact. However, the overall mislabeling rate aligns with pre-2013 estimates, and studies in other states have reported even higher rates. The financial implications of this mislabeling are likely borne by consumers, who may unknowingly pay a premium for farmed salmon falsely advertised as wild. This impact was found to be insignificant in grocery stores.
Beyond the financial burden on consumers, salmon mislabeling carries significant environmental consequences. Inaccurate reporting of catch data and seafood mislabeling complicates fisheries management and conservation efforts, potentially leading to the overfishing of already depleted wild salmon populations, according to Delgado.
The researchers advocate for stronger measures to combat seafood fraud. They suggest encouraging restaurants to regularly test the authenticity of their fish. While the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration offers a voluntary inspection program for fishing boats, processing plants, and retailers, broader participation is needed. Consumers can also play a role by inquiring about a restaurant’s quality control processes, sourcing practices, and whether the salmon is filleted on-site, which allows for easier identification by experienced chefs.
Ultimately, stricter legislation and enforcement are likely necessary to effectively address the persistent problem of salmon mislabeling.
